Way up north, or way down south, depending on your perspective, there’s a building that straddles the United States and Canadian border. It’s the only place I know of where you can enter the US or Canada without going through customs. And, it’s open to the public.
So I, being a travel and geography fanatic, had to check it out.
Derby Line, Vermont and Stanstead, Quebec share this unique building, the Haskell Free Library and Opera House.
The building, a gift from Martha Stewart Haskell along with her son, Colonel Horace Stewart Haskell, was completed in 1904. It was intentionally built along the border with the goal of serving both border town communities. Today, its mission lives on. There are over 20,000 books in both French and English, and residents of both towns can check out material.
Although, with today’s intense border security, I was wondering how easy it would be to visit this place. Would we have to walk through a border checkpoint in the middle of the building? Would we need to show our passports to use the restroom?
As we were coming back from a trip to Quebec City, we thought it would be easier to begin our visit on the Canadian side. We found a side street right next to the library. About 10 yards away (or meters, we were in Canada, after all…) we saw some potted plants in the middle of the street. Upon further inspection, we realized that this was actually the US-Canadian border.
It looked like we wouldn’t have to go through security at all. Of course, we spent a few minutes completely “dorking out” that we could be in two places at once.
I couldn’t get over it. We could hop back and forth along country lines. Was there any security here? Can people randomly go back and forth between the two countries without checking in? What happened to the whole “Protect Our Borders” rhetoric?
And then I noticed it. In the background of the above picture, you’ll notice a black SUV. There was Uncle Sam, making sure we weren’t about to try any funny business. I told my wife that I wanted to run down the street on the Vermont side to see if Homeland Security would pursue me, but again, she persuaded me that it probably wasn’t a good idea. She’s always keeping me out of trouble. It’s a full-time job for her.
Anyway, as a side note, there wasn’t much Canadian security. While we were there, a Canadian Border Patrol car drove by, waved at us, and then continued to drive down the street.
In the video you can see how I was really dorking out about this place. My wife had had enough of my shenanigans. For about a week before visiting the library, I told her it was “wild.” I’m not sure if she shared my enthusiasm.
After the initial “Oh my goodness, this is awesome” feeling subsided, we went inside. The entrance is on the Vermont side. We didn’t have to go through security, but I’m pretty sure if I decided to go for a joy run on the Vermont side, that guy in the black SUV would have been on me in a second.
The inside of the library is like any other library you’d see in other towns. Because it’s an active library with patrons inside, we had to be quiet, and I had to behave. It was difficult to snap any more photos. I didn’t want to be that guy taking photos in a library when people were trying to read; I didn’t want to be too annoying. I did, however, manage to snap a picture and take a video of the international border going through the building.
The building is also a National Landmark in both the US and Canada.
After our brief visit, we decided to continue our journey home. We left out of the main entrance, which is in Vermont, walked over the grass which led us back into Canada and our car. From there, we went to an official border crossing and reentered the States.
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What you need to know if you visit the Haskell Free Library and Opera House:
- This is not an official border crossing.
- If you are coming from the US side, you must immediately return to the US after your visit, no matter your citizenship.
- If you are coming from the Canadian side, you must immediately return to Canada after your visit (yes, even if you’re an American citizen).
- If you want to go across the border to visit the other country, you must go through a border checkpoint. There is one in Derby Line, VT / Standstead, QC where Routes 93 and 55 meet.
- Trying to sneak across this border will most likely result in you being arrested. Nobody wants an international incident, so don’t try.
- And, the most important thing to know: There are two Rs in library. Make sure you pronounce them. If you say “Lieberry,” others, especially non-English speakers, may think you’re referring to something you ate in the Vermont woods.
How to get to the Haskell Free Library depends on what country you’re visiting from.
The US address is 93 Caswell Ave, Derby Line, VT.
The Canadian address is 1 Rue Church, Stanstead, QC.
Pay attention to signs. Your GPS may not worry about telling you to cross the border where there is no checkpoint. You, on the other hand, should be careful.
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10 Reasons Why Every New Englander Needs to Visit Quebec City
With so many things to do and see close to home in New England, we forget about the adventures that await us north of the border. Our French friends have a lot to offer in Quebec City, the capital of the Province of Quebec. Read on for reasons why every New Englander should visit this charming destination.
1. It Feels Like France
When walking in dowtown, or centre ville, of Quebec City, you’ll feel as if you’re walking in France. The colonial buildings, cobblestone roads, historic churches and squares are longstanding testimonials to a time when this area of Canada was quite literally part France. Quebec City is the closest you’ll get to Europe in North America. So if you never got around to going to Paris or Nice, just drive up to Quebec.
2. It’s close.
When we usually think of international travel, expensive airfares come to mind. However, most of us New Englanders don’t have to drive more than a few hours to reach Quebec City. A road trip to Quebec from Boston is about 7 hours (and of course, you get the added bonus of visiting New Hampshire, Vermont, or Maine on the way, depending on your route). In the grand scheme of international travel, Quebec is pretty much in our backyard, which makes it the perfect international destination for an extended weekend.
3. Less Expensive Than Europe
Not only is Quebec easier to get to than Paris, but also a trip to La Capitale is much friendlier on the wallet. The USD to CAD (United States dollar to Canadian dollar) exchange rate is often in our favor. Even during the rare times when the Canadian dollar is worth more than ours, it’s usually not by much. The opposite is true for the Euro. Why get less bang for your buck in Europe when you can go to Quebec?
4. Quebecors are friendly.
Quebecors are more than happy to welcome you into their city. They’re proud of their history, culture, and of course, language, and love sharing their knowledge about their homeland. Many Quebecors, especially in the tourist areas, are bilingual, so there’s no need to worry about a language barrier. Of course, saying “Bonjour” or “Merci” will go a long way, even if those are the only two French words you know. The Quebecor culture, and their demeanors, resemble our own more closely than you might think.
5. Nature is all around
While Quebec City is a bustling area, you don’t have to go far to enjoy the great outdoors. The city is cyclist and walker friendly. If you enjoy strolling in a beautiful park, you can stay in the city and enjoy the Plains of Abraham, a national park overlooking the majestic St. Lawrence River. Or perhaps you’d like to take a short, 8-mile drive and explore Montmorency Falls, which are almost 100 feet taller than Niagara Falls. Perhaps a nice, leisurely drive around the nearby pastoral Island of Orleans (Île d’Orléans), is more your speed. Either way, there’s plently to do outside.
6. Another Perspective on History
We share one very important trait with our French neighbors: We’re proud of our history. We take credit for the American Revolution which eventually led to our independence from Great Britain. Something different happened in Quebec, however. They were part of France until 1763 when they lost the French and Indian War, and then they became part of Great Britain. So while we were ridding ourselves of the British crown, they had just become subjects. English-speaking, Protestant Great Britain wasn’t thrilled that Quebec was full of French-speaking Catholics. Did the Quebecois stop speaking French and being Catholic? Do we stop cheering for the Patriots and dropping our Rs because the rest of the country hates us and thinks it’s ridiculous? I think not.
It wasn’t until 1774, with the passing of the Quebec Acts, that tensions started to loosen. Of course, how effective the Acts were, along with if there’s still tension today, is cause for debate.
7. The Winter Carnival
We New Englanders are no strangers to long, hard winters. In Quebec, they embrace the winter season with their annual Winter Carnival. All sorts of outdoor, winter-related activities take place, such as an ice canoe race across the St. Lawrence River, sledding on toboggans, tasting the frozen Quebec delicacy of maple syrup on a stick, and even visiting or staying in a castle made entirely of ice. Bring your warmest jackets and get out there to enjoy winter!
8. Milder Summers
This isn’t to say that it doesn’t get warm in Quebec; it does. The summer heat and humidity just isn’t as brutal as it is for us New Englanders, especially for those of us who live in Southern New England. If New England’s July and August are too hot for you to handle, drive up north for a cooler, more manageable summer environment.
9. The Food
You haven’t lived until you’ve tried the Province of Quebec’s delicacy: poutine. This dish of French fries topped with cheese and gravy won’t help your arteries, but it sure is good. Another thing to try to is authentic Tourtière, which most of us know simply as French meat pie. Make sure you try authentic crepes topped with maple syrup. If you visit during early summer, make sure you stop at one of the numerous strawberry stands on the way to the city – you’ll never taste anything fresher.
10. Tim Hortons
If you’re a true New Englander, I know what you’re thinking. “This sounds fun and all, but are there any Dunkins up there?” I hope you’re sitting down when you read the answer: No. There aren’t any. Dunkin tried to get a foothold in Quebec, but it just didn’t work out. But hold on, not all is lost! If you need your Dunkin fix, Tim Hortons is the next best thing. In fact, some may argue that it’s even better, but that would be another discussion. Tim Hortons’ menu is similar to Dunkin’s, including iced coffee, so you’ll be all set.
What reasons did I miss? Let me know!
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As a Canuck, I found this a very interesting read. Great blog post!
Thank you! It’s worth a visit if you’re ever in the Stanstead, QC area.